A recent trip to Kansas City, Mo., featured a little bit of everything: basketball, barbecue, baseball and a walk into the past.
For years, I have wanted to visit the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, located in the historic neighborhood of 18th and Vine, northeast of the city. Before heading for home, I made it happen. It was time well spent, wandering through the halls of the museum — employees emphasize that it’s NOT a Hall of Fame — and learning about greats like Jackie Robinson, Josh Gibson, James “Cool Papa” Bell, Judy Johnson, Leroy “Satchel” Paige, Ernie Banks and Rube Foster, to name just a few.
After a few minutes in the museum gift shop, I drove a few blocks to the former location of Municipal Stadium, where the Kansas City Monarchs played. Several Monarchs reached the major leagues after baseball finally integrated in 1947, with Robinson, Page and Banks three of the most noteworthy.
Municipal Stadium was located at 22nd Street and Brooklyn Avenue. After the Negro Leagues disbanded, the stadium hosted the Kansas City A’s, who moved to Oakland in 1968, and the Kansas City Royals, who moved into their current home, Kauffman Stadium, in 1973.
Municipal Stadium closed Oct. 4, 1972 and was demolished in 1976. The former site is mostly an open field now, although there are single-family dwelling being constructed in what used to be deep left field. There’s a tablet with a picture of the ballpark in its heyday for fans to visit. It’s located at the corner of 22nd and Brooklyn, which previously was the right-field line.
I was moved as I tried to imagine what the stadium was like. Where did fans park? Where did the players enter the ballpark? What was it like on game day? I walked into the grassy area, trying to locate medium-deep right field. I think I got close, but as I drove home, I couldn’t stop thinking about my visit.
Cardinals manager Tony La Russa and pitching coach Dave Duncan both played at Municipal. La Russa, who was with Kansas City for 34 games in 1963, said this week that the playing surface was the best he’s ever seen, even better than the ones today. He credits legendary groundskeeper George Toma. La Russa loved the stadium, but said he hasn’t visited the site since he was a player.
The stadium had some unique features, mainly because Charlie Finley was the A’s owner before he moved them to the Bay Area. Finley kept a mule in a stable in right field. There was a mechanical rabbit named Harvey that provided umpires with new baseballs and a compressed-air machine that kept home plate clean.
So if you’re in Kansas City any time soon, take time out to visit the museum and 22nd and Brooklyn. If you love baseball and history, you won’t regret it.
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